@font-face{font-family:DM Sans;src:url(/fonts/dm-sans-latin-variable-400-600.woff2) format("woff2");font-style:normal;font-weight:400 600;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:Libre Caslon Display;src:url(/fonts/libre-caslon-display-latin-regular.woff2) format("woff2");font-style:normal;font-weight:400;font-display:swap}:root{--paper: #f1eee7;--paper-light: #faf8f3;--ink: #171714;--muted: #6f6c64;--vermillion: #c43d29;--sage: #9aa58d;--blue-grey: #9eafb6;--line: rgba(23, 23, 20, .22);--display: "Libre Caslon Display", "Iowan Old Style", "Times New Roman", serif;--sans: "DM Sans", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;--page: min(1600px, calc(100vw - 48px) )}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;text-size-adjust:100%}html:lang(th){--display: "Th Sarabun New", "Thonburi", "Leelawadee UI", "Noto Serif Thai", Tahoma, sans-serif;--sans: "Sukhumvit Set", "Thonburi", "Leelawadee UI", "Noto Sans Thai", Tahoma, Arial, sans-serif}html:lang(zh-Hans){--display: "Songti SC", "Noto Serif CJK SC", "STSong", serif;--sans: "PingFang SC", "Noto Sans CJK SC", "Microsoft YaHei", sans-serif}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.5;text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}body:before{content:"";position:fixed;inset:0;pointer-events:none;opacity:.15;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg viewBox='0 0 180 180' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.85' numOctaves='2' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' filter='url(%23n)' opacity='.18'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");z-index:20;mix-blend-mode:multiply}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}img{display:block;max-width:100%}:where(a,button,select,summary):focus-visible{outline:2px solid currentColor;outline-offset:3px}.skip-link{position:fixed;left:16px;top:12px;transform:translateY(-200%);background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper-light);padding:10px 14px;z-index:100}.skip-link:focus{transform:none}.visually-hidden{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}.site-header{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;min-height:96px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);position:relative;z-index:30}.wordmark{display:inline-flex;align-items:flex-start;width:max-content}.wordmark-main{font-family:Impact,Haettenschweiler,Arial Narrow Bold,sans-serif;font-stretch:condensed;font-size:clamp(2rem,4.2vw,4.6rem);letter-spacing:-.055em;line-height:.8}.wordmark-code{font-size:.7rem;margin-left:.35rem;line-height:1;font-weight:600}.header-actions{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(18px,2vw,30px)}.desktop-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(18px,2.5vw,42px)}.desktop-nav a,.mobile-nav summary{font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;font-weight:600}.desktop-nav a{padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.desktop-nav a:hover,.desktop-nav a.active{border-color:var(--ink)}.mobile-nav{display:none}.language-picker select{max-width:10rem;min-height:36px;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:0;padding:8px 26px 8px 10px;color:var(--ink);background:transparent;font:600 .68rem/1.1 var(--sans);cursor:pointer}.mobile-language-picker{display:grid;gap:8px;padding-top:4px;border-top:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.28)}.mobile-language-picker span{font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.mobile-language-picker select{width:100%;max-width:none;color:var(--paper-light);border-color:var(--paper-light)}html:not(:lang(en)) .kicker,html:not(:lang(en)) .text-link,html:not(:lang(en)) .desktop-nav a,html:not(:lang(en)) .mobile-nav summary,html:not(:lang(en)) .footer-links,html:not(:lang(en)) .footer-meta{text-transform:none;letter-spacing:.04em}.page-shell{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto}.kicker{margin:0;font-size:clamp(.76rem,.72rem + .18vw,.84rem);font-weight:600;line-height:1.45;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}.section-rule{border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.text-link{display:inline-flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;font-size:.74rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}.text-link:after{content:"↗";font-size:1rem;transition:transform .16s ease}.text-link:hover:after{transform:translate(3px,-3px)}.breadcrumbs{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-top:24px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.74rem;line-height:1.45;letter-spacing:.08em}.breadcrumbs ol{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:7px;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.breadcrumbs li{display:flex;min-width:0;align-items:center;gap:7px}.breadcrumbs li+li:before{content:"/";color:var(--line)}.breadcrumbs a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:28px;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:transparent;text-underline-offset:4px}.breadcrumbs a:hover{color:var(--ink);text-decoration-color:currentColor}.breadcrumbs [aria-current=page]{min-width:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere;color:var(--ink)}.simple-page>.breadcrumbs,.article-shell>.breadcrumbs{width:100%;padding-top:0;margin-bottom:42px}.hero{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:30px 0 76px}.hero-utility{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;margin-bottom:30px;color:var(--muted)}.hero-title{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4.7rem,15.2vw,14.8rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.065em;line-height:.72;text-transform:uppercase;position:relative;z-index:2}.hero-title span{display:block}.hero-title span:last-child{text-align:right;font-style:italic;padding-right:.02em}.hero-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.6fr) minmax(250px,.7fr);align-items:end;gap:clamp(24px,5vw,86px);margin-top:-1.5vw}.hero-image{aspect-ratio:16 / 10;overflow:hidden;background:var(--blue-grey)}.hero-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .8s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.hero-image:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.hero-note{padding-bottom:18px}.hero-note p:not(.kicker){max-width:30ch;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2vw,2.1rem);line-height:1.12}.manifesto{background:var(--vermillion);color:var(--paper-light);padding:clamp(80px,12vw,190px) max(24px,calc((100vw - min(1600px,calc(100vw - 48px)))/2))}.manifesto-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.42fr 1.58fr;gap:8vw}.manifesto h2{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(3rem,7vw,7.5rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.96;letter-spacing:-.04em;max-width:13ch}.manifesto-copy{align-self:end}.manifesto-copy p{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2.2vw,2.5rem);line-height:1.25;max-width:28ch;margin:0 0 34px}.editorial-section{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(80px,10vw,150px) 0}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;padding-bottom:22px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);margin-bottom:32px}.section-heading h2{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.6rem,5vw,5.6rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.9;letter-spacing:-.04em}.story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr .7fr .7fr;gap:clamp(16px,2.4vw,36px)}.story-card{display:block}.story-card-image{overflow:hidden;background:#d8d4cb;aspect-ratio:4 / 5}.story-card.featured .story-card-image{aspect-ratio:4 / 3}.story-card img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .7s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.story-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.035)}.story-card-copy{padding-top:15px}.story-card h3{margin:7px 0 8px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.55rem,2.6vw,3.2rem);font-weight:400;line-height:1.02}.story-card:not(.featured) h3{font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2vw,2.2rem)}.story-card p{margin:0;color:var(--muted);max-width:43ch;font-size:.92rem}.day-section{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper-light)}.day-inner{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(80px,10vw,150px) 0}.day-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:6vw;align-items:end;margin-bottom:80px}.day-top h2{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4rem,9vw,10rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.82;letter-spacing:-.05em}.day-top p{max-width:34ch;color:#c8c5bd}.day-list{border-top:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.35)}.day-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.36fr 1.64fr;gap:4vw;padding:26px 0;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.35);align-items:baseline}.day-row time{color:var(--blue-grey);font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.12em}.day-row h3{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3vw,3.5rem);font-weight:400}.issue-feature{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(90px,12vw,180px) 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr;gap:clamp(40px,9vw,150px);align-items:center}.issue-cover-wrap{background:var(--sage);padding:clamp(24px,4vw,58px)}.issue-cover-wrap img{width:min(100%,600px);margin:0 auto;box-shadow:0 28px 60px #17171438}.issue-copy h2{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(3.4rem,7vw,8rem);line-height:.86;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.05em;margin:20px 0 30px}.issue-copy p{max-width:42ch;margin-bottom:36px}.site-footer{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding:54px 0 36px}.footer-lead{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.5fr 1.5fr;gap:4vw;padding-bottom:80px}.footer-statement{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.8rem,6vw,7rem);line-height:.95;margin:0;max-width:14ch}.footer-links,.footer-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:18px;font-size:.75rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.footer-links{flex-wrap:wrap}.footer-links{margin-bottom:42px}.listing-hero{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:70px 0 90px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.4fr 1.6fr;gap:5vw}.listing-hero h1{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(4.2rem,11vw,11rem);line-height:.82;letter-spacing:-.055em}.listing-hero p{align-self:end;max-width:40ch;margin:0;font-size:1.05rem}.listing-hero>.kicker{font-size:clamp(.76rem,.72rem + .18vw,.84rem)}.index-grid{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:140px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:70px 28px}.index-card{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:18px}.index-card-image{position:relative;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:20px;background:#d8d4cb}.index-card img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .7s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.index-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.index-card-image>span:not(.image-status){position:absolute;top:14px;left:14px;display:grid;place-items:center;width:42px;height:42px;border-radius:50%;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.08em}.index-card:first-child{grid-column:1 / -1}.index-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:16/7}.index-card h2{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(2rem,3.5vw,4rem);line-height:1;margin:8px 0 12px}.index-card p{color:var(--muted);max-width:55ch}.index-card-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:6px 18px;margin-top:24px;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.simple-page{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:70px 0 150px}.simple-page-header{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.42fr 1.58fr;gap:5vw;margin-bottom:100px}.simple-page-header>*,.listing-hero>*,.article-highlight>*,.article-place>*,.article-research>*,.article-related-heading>*{min-width:0}.simple-page h1{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4rem,10vw,10rem);line-height:.84;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.05em}.simple-page-intro{align-self:end;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.5vw,2.8rem);line-height:1.2;max-width:30ch}.simple-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:32px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:24px}.simple-grid h2{font-family:var(--display);font-size:2.2rem;font-weight:400;margin:8px 0 14px}.simple-grid p{color:var(--muted)}.contact-direct{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.42fr 1.58fr;gap:5vw;margin-bottom:90px;padding:clamp(38px,6vw,82px);color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink)}.contact-direct>*{min-width:0}.contact-direct .kicker{color:var(--paper-light)}.contact-direct h2{margin:0 0 24px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.8rem,6vw,6.6rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.94;letter-spacing:-.045em}.contact-direct h2 a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}.contact-direct p:not(.kicker){max-width:54ch;margin:0;color:#faf8f3c7;font-size:1.05rem;line-height:1.65}.contact-card{display:flex;min-height:330px;flex-direction:column}.contact-card-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 24px;margin-top:auto;padding-top:28px}.contact-checklist{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.72fr 1.28fr;gap:8vw;margin-top:90px;padding:clamp(38px,6vw,82px);color:var(--paper-light);background:linear-gradient(135deg,#263f52,#172c3c)}.contact-checklist>*{min-width:0}.contact-checklist .kicker{color:var(--paper-light)}.contact-checklist h2{margin:12px 0 0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.7rem,5vw,5.8rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.96}.contact-checklist ol{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;counter-reset:contact-list}.contact-checklist li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:42px minmax(0,1fr);gap:18px;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.3);font-size:1.05rem;line-height:1.5;counter-increment:contact-list}.contact-checklist li:before{content:counter(contact-list,decimal-leading-zero);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em}.article-shell{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:70px 0 140px}.article-header{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.92fr 1.08fr;gap:7vw;align-items:start;margin-bottom:90px}.article-heading h1{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(3.8rem,7vw,8.2rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.9;letter-spacing:-.045em;margin:20px 0 30px}.article-standfirst{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2vw,2.2rem);line-height:1.28}.article-byline{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);margin-top:36px;padding-top:14px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 24px;font-size:.7rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.article-disclosure{margin:22px 0 0;padding:14px 16px;border-left:3px solid var(--vermillion);background:#c43d2914;font-size:.78rem;line-height:1.5}.article-hero{margin:0}.article-hero img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover}.article-hero.article-hero-illustration img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.article-image-credit{margin-top:12px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--ink)}.draft-badge{display:inline-block;margin-left:8px;padding:3px 7px;background:var(--vermillion);color:var(--paper-light);font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;vertical-align:middle}.draft-note{margin:0 0 48px;padding:16px 18px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper-light);color:var(--muted);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.78rem;line-height:1.5}.article-body{width:min(720px,100%);margin:0 auto}.article-highlight{position:relative;width:min(980px,100%);margin:0 auto 90px;padding:clamp(36px,6vw,82px);display:grid;grid-template-columns:.42fr 1.58fr;gap:5vw;overflow:hidden;color:var(--paper-light);background:linear-gradient(135deg,#c43d29,#982b22)}.article-highlight:after{content:"+66";position:absolute;right:-.06em;bottom:-.22em;color:#ffffff14;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(8rem,20vw,20rem);line-height:1;pointer-events:none}.article-highlight>*{position:relative;z-index:1}.article-highlight h2{max-width:14ch;margin:0 0 24px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.7rem,5vw,5.8rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.94}.article-highlight p:not(.kicker){max-width:58ch;margin:0;font-size:clamp(1rem,1.35vw,1.2rem);line-height:1.65}.prose{font-family:Iowan Old Style,Georgia,serif;font-size:clamp(1.08rem,1.4vw,1.27rem);line-height:1.72}.prose h2{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.4rem,4vw,4.5rem);line-height:1;font-weight:400;margin:80px 0 24px}.prose h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.78rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em;margin:44px 0 10px}.prose blockquote{margin:65px -12vw;padding:44px 12vw;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2rem,4vw,4.2rem);line-height:1.08;text-align:center}.prose a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.article-guide .article-body{width:min(790px,100%)}.article-guide .prose>p:first-child{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.5vw,2.65rem);line-height:1.28}.article-guide .prose h2{padding-top:22px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.article-guide .prose strong{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.78em;letter-spacing:.035em}.article-guide .prose ul{margin:44px 0;padding:30px 32px 30px 54px;border-left:4px solid var(--vermillion);background:var(--paper-light)}.article-guide .prose li+li{margin-top:10px}.editorial-image{margin:0;min-width:0}.editorial-image-media{position:relative;overflow:hidden;background:#d8d4cb}.editorial-image img{width:100%;height:100%;aspect-ratio:4 / 3;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .8s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.editorial-image:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.image-status{position:absolute;right:12px;bottom:12px;z-index:2;width:max-content;max-width:calc(100% - 24px);padding:7px 9px;color:var(--paper-light);background:#171714db;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.68rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.photo-field{position:relative;display:grid;align-content:end;min-height:340px;overflow:hidden;padding:clamp(22px,3vw,44px);isolation:isolate;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--field-color, var(--ink))}.photo-field:before,.photo-field:after{content:"";position:absolute;z-index:-1;border:1px solid currentColor;opacity:.34}.photo-field:before{width:min(72%,420px);aspect-ratio:1;top:-18%;right:-8%;border-radius:50%}.photo-field:after{width:76%;height:1px;top:31%;left:13%;transform:rotate(-23deg)}.photo-field[data-accent=vermilion]{--field-color: var(--vermillion)}.photo-field[data-accent=sage]{--field-color: #697360}.photo-field[data-accent=blue]{--field-color: #58717e}.photo-field[data-accent=sand]{--field-color: #80664e}.photo-field[data-accent=ink]{--field-color: var(--ink)}.photo-field-word{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(3rem,7vw,7rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.055em;line-height:.8;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.photo-field strong{display:block;margin:10px 0 22px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.8rem,5.8vw,6.7rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.055em;line-height:.84}.photo-field>div>span{display:block;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.5);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}.photo-field.compact strong{font-size:clamp(2.3rem,4vw,4.4rem)}.photo-field-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:18px;margin-top:24px;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid rgba(250,248,243,.5);font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em}.photo-field.compact{min-height:250px}.photo-field.compact .photo-field-word{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,4.5vw,4.5rem)}.place-filters{width:var(--page);margin:-46px auto 44px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.place-filters button{min-height:44px;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:999px;padding:10px 15px;color:var(--ink);background:transparent;font:600 .72rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;transition:color .16s ease,background .16s ease}.place-filters button:hover,.place-filters button[aria-pressed=true]{color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink)}.places-grid{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:clamp(90px,11vw,160px);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(42px,6vw,86px) clamp(18px,2.4vw,38px)}.place-grid-item[hidden]{display:none}.place-card{display:block;min-width:0}.place-card-visual{aspect-ratio:4 / 3;overflow:hidden}.place-card-visual .editorial-image,.place-card-visual .editorial-image-media,.place-card-visual .photo-field{height:100%}.place-card-visual .editorial-image img{aspect-ratio:auto}.place-card-copy{padding:15px 0 0}.place-card-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:14px;color:var(--muted)}.place-card h2,.place-card h3{margin:8px 0 10px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.75rem,2.8vw,3.15rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.035em}.place-card p{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.place-card:hover h2,.place-card:hover h3{color:var(--vermillion)}.home-places{width:auto;padding:0}.place-preview-section{padding-top:0}.place-page{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:56px 0 150px}.place-hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.92fr) minmax(0,1.08fr);align-items:end;gap:clamp(34px,7vw,110px);min-height:calc(100vh - 152px);padding-bottom:clamp(70px,10vw,140px)}.place-hero-copy h1{margin:16px 0 30px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4rem,8.4vw,9.5rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.84;letter-spacing:-.055em}.place-lede{max-width:41ch;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.45rem,2.2vw,2.45rem);line-height:1.2}.place-hero-image .editorial-image-media,.place-hero-image .photo-field,.place-hero-image .editorial-image-media img{aspect-ratio:4 / 5}.place-details{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr .85fr .85fr;gap:clamp(30px,5vw,80px);padding:28px 0 clamp(80px,10vw,140px);border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.place-details h2{margin:14px 0 28px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.5vw,2.65rem);font-weight:400;line-height:1.08}.place-details p:not(.kicker){color:var(--muted)}.place-link-list{display:grid;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.place-link-list a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:.78rem}.place-photo-status,.place-story-callout,.article-place{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.4fr 1.6fr;gap:5vw;padding:clamp(50px,7vw,100px);background:var(--blue-grey)}.place-photo-status h2,.place-story-callout h2,.article-place h2{margin:0 0 20px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.7rem,5vw,5.7rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.95}.place-photo-status p:not(.kicker),.place-story-callout p:not(.kicker),.article-place p:not(.kicker){max-width:54ch}.place-story-callout{margin-top:18px;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--vermillion)}.photo-triptych{width:var(--page);margin:clamp(80px,11vw,170px) auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr .7fr .55fr;gap:clamp(14px,2vw,30px);align-items:end}.photo-triptych-wide .editorial-image-media img{aspect-ratio:16 / 11}.photo-triptych>.editorial-image:not(.photo-triptych-wide) .editorial-image-media img{aspect-ratio:3 / 4}.photo-triptych-note{padding:0 0 32px 12px}.photo-triptych-note p:not(.kicker){font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.45rem,2.25vw,2.45rem);line-height:1.15}.issue-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px 34px}.guide-grid{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:150px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:30px 22px}.guide-card{min-width:0;overflow:hidden;background:var(--paper-light);border:1px solid var(--line);transition:transform .18s ease,box-shadow .18s ease}.guide-card:hover{transform:translateY(-5px);box-shadow:0 24px 48px #1717141f}.guide-card-image,.guide-card-directory{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4 / 3;overflow:hidden;background:var(--blue-grey)}.guide-card-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .7s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.guide-card:hover .guide-card-image img{transform:scale(1.03)}.guide-card-index{position:absolute;top:16px;left:16px;display:grid;place-items:center;width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.08em}.guide-card-copy{min-height:330px;padding:26px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.guide-card h2{margin:36px 0 18px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.2rem,3.4vw,3.8rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.94}.guide-card p{max-width:38ch}.guide-card .text-link{margin-top:auto;padding-top:28px}.guide-card-directory{display:grid;place-items:center;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--vermillion)}.guide-card-directory:after{content:"";position:absolute;width:72%;aspect-ratio:1;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.42);border-radius:50%}.guide-card-directory strong{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(5rem,10vw,10rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.07em;line-height:1}.neighbourhood-hero{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding:62px 0 clamp(80px,10vw,150px)}.neighbourhood-hero h1{margin:20px 0 48px;max-width:10ch;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4.4rem,10vw,11.5rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.82;letter-spacing:-.06em}.neighbourhood-hero .editorial-image-media img{aspect-ratio:16 / 8.5}.neighbourhood-intro{width:min(980px,var(--page));margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:clamp(90px,12vw,180px)}.neighbourhood-intro>p{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3vw,3.4rem);line-height:1.24}.route-sequence{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:150px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.route-sequence article{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(64px,.35fr) minmax(0,.75fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:clamp(18px,4vw,70px);align-items:baseline;padding:28px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.route-sequence time{color:var(--muted);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.1em}.route-sequence h2{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2rem,3.2vw,3.7rem);font-weight:400;line-height:1}.route-sequence article p{max-width:42ch;margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.route-sequence-header{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.45fr 1.55fr;gap:5vw;margin-bottom:45px;padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.route-sequence-header h2{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(3rem,6vw,6.7rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.9}.route-sequence .places-grid{width:auto;padding:0}.about-statement{padding:clamp(55px,8vw,110px);color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--vermillion)}.about-statement p{margin:0;max-width:24ch;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5.8rem);line-height:1.02}.credit-grid{width:var(--page);margin:0 auto;padding-bottom:150px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:72px 30px}.credit-card{border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:16px}.credit-card h2{margin:14px 0 18px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2rem,3.5vw,4rem);font-weight:400;line-height:1}.credit-card dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr;gap:7px 18px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.78rem}.credit-card dt{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}.credit-card dd{margin:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.article-place{width:min(980px,100%);margin:100px auto 0}.article-place-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px 34px}.article-place-address{margin:0 0 26px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.25rem,2vw,1.8rem);line-height:1.25}.article-place-hours,.place-hours{margin:-8px 0 28px;padding:0;color:var(--muted);list-style:none}.article-place-hours li+li,.place-hours li+li{margin-top:6px}.article-place-checked{margin:30px 0 0;color:#1717149e;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.article-research,.article-related{width:min(980px,100%);margin:100px auto 0;padding-top:24px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}.article-research{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.74fr 1.26fr;gap:clamp(40px,7vw,110px)}.article-research-heading h2,.article-related-heading h2{margin:16px 0 0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(2.6rem,5vw,5.7rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.95}.article-research-copy{padding-top:34px}.article-research-copy>p:not(.article-research-method){max-width:58ch;font-family:Iowan Old Style,Georgia,serif;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.25vw,1.2rem);line-height:1.68}.article-research-copy h3{margin:44px 0 10px;font-size:.7rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em}.article-research-method{margin:46px 0 20px;padding-top:18px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted);font-size:.72rem;line-height:1.55}.article-source-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:14px 26px}.article-source-links a{font-size:.72rem}.article-related-heading{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.42fr 1.58fr;gap:5vw;align-items:start;margin-bottom:46px}.article-related-heading h2{margin-top:0;max-width:14ch}.article-related-links{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:14px}.article-related-links a{min-height:230px;padding:24px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper-light);transition:color .18s ease,background-color .18s ease,transform .18s ease}.article-related-links a:hover{color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink);transform:translateY(-4px)}.article-related-links span,.article-related-links small{font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em}.article-related-links strong{margin:auto 0 22px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.8rem,3vw,3.2rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.98}.reveal-ready [data-reveal]{opacity:0;transform:translateY(22px);transition:opacity .62s ease,transform .72s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.reveal-ready [data-reveal].is-visible{opacity:1;transform:translateY(0)}@media(max-width:900px){:root{--page: calc(100vw - 32px) }.site-header{min-height:78px}.wordmark{min-height:44px;padding:9px 0}.header-actions{display:none}.mobile-nav{display:block;position:relative}.mobile-nav summary{display:grid;width:44px;min-height:44px;place-items:center;list-style:none;cursor:pointer}.mobile-nav summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.mobile-nav-panel{position:absolute;right:0;top:44px;width:min(300px,calc(100vw - 32px));max-height:calc(100vh - 94px);max-height:calc(100dvh - 94px);padding:18px 24px 22px;display:grid;gap:4px;overflow-y:auto;overscroll-behavior:contain;color:var(--paper-light);background:var(--ink);box-shadow:0 20px 40px #0000002e}.mobile-nav-panel>a{display:flex;min-height:44px;align-items:center}.mobile-language-picker select{min-height:44px;font-size:.75rem}.hero{padding-top:20px}.hero-title{font-size:clamp(4.5rem,21vw,8.5rem);line-height:.78}.hero-title span:last-child{text-align:left;padding-left:8vw}.hero-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;margin-top:20px}.hero-note{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:20px;align-items:start}.hero-note p:not(.kicker){margin-top:0}.manifesto-grid,.day-top,.issue-feature,.article-header,.article-highlight{grid-template-columns:1fr}.manifesto-grid{gap:80px}.story-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.story-card.featured{grid-column:1 / -1}.issue-feature{gap:60px}.listing-hero,.simple-page-header{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px}.simple-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.contact-direct,.contact-checklist{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:38px}.contact-card{min-height:auto}.article-heading{order:0}.article-hero{order:1}.article-hero img{aspect-ratio:16/10}.prose blockquote{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;padding-left:0;padding-right:0}.places-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.place-hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;min-height:auto}.place-hero-copy{order:1}.place-hero-image{order:0}.place-hero-image .editorial-image-media,.place-hero-image .photo-field,.place-hero-image .editorial-image-media img{aspect-ratio:16 / 10}.place-details{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.place-details section:first-child{grid-column:1 / -1}.photo-triptych{grid-template-columns:1.15fr .85fr}.photo-triptych-note{grid-column:1 / -1;padding:20px 0 0}.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.route-sequence-header{grid-template-columns:1fr}.article-research{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:10px}.article-related-heading{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}}@media(max-width:600px){body:before{display:none}.hero{padding-bottom:60px}.hero-utility{display:grid;gap:6px}.hero-utility span:last-child{display:none}.hero-title{font-size:clamp(3.9rem,20vw,8.5rem)}.hero-note{grid-template-columns:1fr}.section-heading{align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column;gap:18px}.story-grid,.index-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.index-card:first-child{grid-column:auto}.index-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:16/9}.listing-hero{padding:44px 0 72px;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.listing-hero h1,.simple-page h1,.neighbourhood-hero h1{min-width:0;font-size:clamp(2.9rem,15vw,4.8rem);line-height:.9;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.simple-page{padding:44px 0 100px}.simple-page-header{gap:28px;margin-bottom:72px}.contact-direct{margin-bottom:72px;padding:34px 24px}.contact-direct h2{font-size:clamp(2.15rem,11vw,3.4rem)}.contact-checklist{margin-top:72px;padding:34px 24px}.article-shell{padding:44px 0 100px}.article-header{gap:40px;margin-bottom:64px}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(3.1rem,16vw,4.6rem);line-height:.92;margin:16px 0 24px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.article-byline{font-size:.74rem;line-height:1.45}.day-row{grid-template-columns:80px 1fr}.footer-lead{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;padding-bottom:60px}.footer-links,.footer-meta{align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column;gap:0}.footer-links a{display:flex;min-height:44px;align-items:center}.footer-meta{gap:10px;font-size:.68rem}.places-grid,.guide-grid,.credit-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.place-filters{margin-top:-28px}.place-details{grid-template-columns:1fr}.place-details section:first-child{grid-column:auto}.place-photo-status,.place-story-callout,.article-place,.article-highlight{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:34px 24px}.place-photo-status h2,.place-story-callout h2,.article-place h2{min-width:0;font-size:clamp(2.1rem,12vw,3.6rem);overflow-wrap:anywhere}.article-highlight{margin-bottom:64px}.article-related-links{grid-template-columns:1fr}.article-related-links a{min-height:190px}.photo-triptych{grid-template-columns:1fr}.photo-triptych-note{padding-top:12px}.route-sequence{padding-bottom:100px}.route-sequence article{grid-template-columns:64px minmax(0,1fr);gap:8px 16px;padding:24px 0}.route-sequence article p{grid-column:2}.guide-card-copy{min-height:auto}.credit-card dl{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr}.article-guide .prose ul{margin:36px 0;padding:24px 20px 24px 36px}.text-link{min-height:44px}.place-link-list a{min-height:44px;align-items:center}}@media(hover:none){.hero-image:hover img,.story-card:hover img,.index-card:hover img,.editorial-image:hover img,.guide-card:hover .guide-card-image img{transform:none}.guide-card:hover{transform:none;box-shadow:none}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition-duration:.01ms!important}.reveal-ready [data-reveal]{opacity:1;transform:none}}:root{--paper: #f5f2eb;--paper-light: #fcfaf5;--muted: #69675e;--line: rgba(23,23,20,.2);--page: min(1480px, calc(100% - 80px) )}body:before{opacity:.045}::selection{background:#d9dfce;color:var(--ink)}.site-header{min-height:106px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}.wordmark-main{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,5.2vw,5.5rem)}.wordmark-code{margin-top:.05rem;font-size:.8rem}.site-header.home-masthead{min-height:150px}.home-masthead .wordmark-main{font-size:clamp(4rem,8vw,8rem)}.desktop-nav{gap:clamp(18px,2vw,34px)}.desktop-nav a{min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center;font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.13em}.language-picker select{min-height:40px;border-color:var(--line)}.mag-cover{padding-bottom:0}.mag-cover-line{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;padding:20px 0 28px;color:var(--muted)}.mag-cover-line .kicker{font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.15em}.mag-cover-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.78fr 1.22fr;gap:clamp(32px,4.8vw,80px);align-items:center}.mag-cover-copy{padding-bottom:36px}.mag-cover-copy>.kicker{color:var(--muted);font-size:.65rem}.mag-cover h1{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(4rem,7.7vw,8.6rem);font-weight:400;line-height:.86;letter-spacing:-.045em;margin:36px 0 30px}.mag-cover h1 em{display:block;margin-top:.08em;font-weight:400}.mag-cover-deck{max-width:29ch;margin:0 0 32px;color:#515248;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(1.4rem,1.85vw,2rem);line-height:1.3}.mag-cover-art{margin:0;min-width:0}.mag-cover-art>a{display:block;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:1.25;background:#dde0cd}.mag-cover-art img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.mag-cover-art figcaption{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;padding:12px 0;font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.035em;color:var(--muted)}.mag-topic-nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:32px;padding:26px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);margin-top:35px}.mag-topic-nav a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;font-family:var(--display);font-size:1.6rem;line-height:1.2;padding:4px 0}.mag-topic-nav a>span{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.62rem;color:var(--muted)}.mag-topic-nav a>span:last-child{margin-left:auto;font-size:1rem;color:var(--ink)}.mag-section{padding-top:100px;padding-bottom:90px}.mag-section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:32px;margin-bottom:45px}.mag-section-heading .kicker{color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:18px;font-size:.65rem}.mag-section-heading h2{font:400 clamp(2.8rem,4.7vw,5.4rem)/.98 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.025em;margin:0}.mag-section-heading>.text-link{flex-shrink:0;margin-bottom:7px}.mag-story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(24px,3.2vw,54px)}.mag-story{display:block;min-width:0}.mag-story-image{aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;background:#deddd2}.mag-story-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .65s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.mag-story:hover img{transform:scale(1.025)}.mag-story-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;align-items:center;margin:20px 0 13px}.mag-story-meta .kicker{font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.12em}.mag-story-meta>span:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:.62rem}.mag-story h3{font:400 clamp(1.8rem,2.7vw,3rem)/1.04 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:0 0 14px}.mag-story p{font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.65;color:var(--muted);max-width:47ch;margin:0}.mag-edit-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.15fr 1fr;align-items:start}.mag-edit-grid .mag-story:nth-child(2){margin-top:55px}.mag-edit-grid .mag-story:nth-child(2) .mag-story-image{aspect-ratio:4/5}.mag-disclosure{display:block;margin-top:16px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.65rem}.mag-food-feature{background:#e6e8da;padding:80px 0}.mag-food-inner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.72fr 1.28fr;gap:8vw;align-items:center}.mag-food-copy h2{font:400 clamp(3.5rem,6.1vw,7rem)/.95 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.04em;margin:28px 0}.mag-food-copy>p:not(.kicker){max-width:35ch;font-size:1.02rem;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:28px}.mag-food-copy>.kicker{font-size:.65rem}.mag-secondary-link{display:block;font-size:.8rem;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px;margin-top:22px}.mag-food-image{overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:1.2}.mag-food-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.mag-section-deck{color:var(--muted);font:400 clamp(1.35rem,2vw,1.9rem)/1.4 var(--display);max-width:55ch;margin:-18px 0 45px}.mag-hotel-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:50px}.mag-hotel-grid .mag-story-image{aspect-ratio:3/2}.mag-hotel-grid .mag-story h3{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.2vw,3.7rem)}.mag-section-end{margin-top:40px}.mag-outside{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8vw;align-items:center;padding:70px 6vw;background:#202f27;color:#f6f1e6}.mag-outside-visual{max-height:420px;overflow:hidden}.mag-outside-visual img{width:100%;height:auto}.mag-outside-copy h2{font:400 clamp(3rem,5.2vw,5.5rem)/1 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.03em;margin:24px 0}.mag-outside-copy>p:not(.kicker){max-width:34ch;color:#d5dbd0;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:30px}.mag-outside-copy .kicker{color:#c2cebb;font-size:.65rem}.mag-issue{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr;gap:10vw;align-items:center;padding:70px 8vw 100px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.mag-issue-art{padding:35px 45px;background:#e6e2d8;transform:rotate(-3deg)}.mag-issue-art img{width:100%;box-shadow:8px 10px 20px #17171412}.mag-issue-copy h2{font:400 clamp(3rem,5.3vw,6rem)/.98 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.04em;margin:20px 0 30px}.mag-issue-copy p:not(.kicker){max-width:37ch;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.75;margin-bottom:30px}.mag-issue-copy .kicker{font-size:.65rem}.mag-page-heading{padding:65px 0 55px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}.mag-page-heading h1{font:400 clamp(4rem,7.8vw,8.4rem)/.95 var(--display);letter-spacing:-.045em;margin:24px 0;max-width:13ch}.mag-page-heading>p:not(.kicker){font:400 clamp(1.4rem,2.1vw,2.1rem)/1.35 var(--display);max-width:43ch;color:var(--muted)}.mag-hotel-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:7vw;align-items:center;padding:65px 0}.mag-hotel-intro .mag-page-heading{border:0;padding:0}.mag-hotel-intro-image{aspect-ratio:1.2;overflow:hidden}.mag-hotel-intro-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.mag-hotel-compare{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.4fr;gap:8vw;padding:60px 0;margin-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.mag-hotel-compare h2{font:400 clamp(2.5rem,4.2vw,4.5rem)/1.05 var(--display);margin:15px 0 0}.mag-hotel-compare p{color:var(--muted);line-height:1.75;max-width:52ch;margin-bottom:25px}.mag-hotel-source-note{color:var(--muted);font-size:.75rem;margin-top:32px}.article-header{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:50px;margin-bottom:65px}.article-heading{width:min(1040px,100%);margin:0 auto;text-align:center}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(3.3rem,6.7vw,7.3rem);line-height:.98;margin:28px 0;text-wrap:balance}.article-heading>.kicker{color:var(--muted);font-size:.64rem}.article-standfirst{width:min(740px,100%);margin:0 auto;font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2.1vw,2rem);line-height:1.35;color:#57594f}.article-byline{justify-content:center;border-top:0;padding-top:0;gap:10px 22px;font-size:.62rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:30px}.article-hero{width:min(1100px,100%);margin:0 auto}.article-hero img,.article-hero.article-hero-illustration img{aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;max-height:730px}.article-image-credit{color:var(--muted);font-size:.66rem;margin-top:10px}.article-guide .article-body,.article-body{width:min(690px,100%)}.prose{font-size:clamp(1.06rem,1.35vw,1.22rem);line-height:1.8}.prose h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.5vw,3.5rem);line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-.015em;margin-top:60px}.prose>p:first-child:first-letter{float:left;font-family:var(--display);font-size:4.8em;line-height:.8;padding-right:.1em;padding-top:.12em}.article-guide .prose>p:first-child:first-letter{float:none;font:inherit;padding:0}.prose>p{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:1.55em}.article-sources{width:min(690px,100%);margin:55px auto 0;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem}.article-sources summary{cursor:pointer;padding:5px 0}.article-sources ul{padding-left:18px;line-height:1.9}.article-sources a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-related{padding-top:45px;margin-top:65px}.article-related-links a{background:transparent;padding:22px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.article-related-links strong{font-size:1.65rem}.article-place{background:#e9e9df;color:var(--ink);margin-top:65px;padding:45px 55px}.article-place a,.article-place p,.article-place .kicker{color:inherit}.article-place h2{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,4.5vw,4.6rem)}.index-card-image>span:not(.image-status){width:auto;height:auto;border-radius:0;background:var(--paper-light);color:var(--ink);padding:7px 10px;top:0;left:0}.index-grid{gap:60px 40px}.index-card{border-top-color:var(--line)}.index-card h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.2vw,3.5rem)}.index-card p{line-height:1.65}.place-filters{gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap}.place-filters button{min-height:44px}.place-card-copy h2{font-size:clamp(1.8rem,2.65vw,2.8rem)}.place-partner-label{display:block;color:var(--muted);font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.08em;margin-bottom:8px}.site-footer{padding-top:45px}.footer-lead{padding-bottom:55px}.footer-statement{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5.6rem)}.footer-links a{min-height:36px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center}@media(min-width:1000px){.mag-cover{padding-top:0}.index-card:first-child{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:0 50px;align-items:center}.index-card:first-child .index-card-image{grid-row:1 / 5;margin-bottom:0}.index-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:1.25}.index-card:first-child .index-card-meta{grid-column:2}}@media(max-width:1000px){:root{--page: calc(100% - 48px) }.mag-cover h1{font-size:clamp(4rem,8vw,6rem)}.mag-story-meta>span:last-child{display:none}.mag-food-inner{gap:5vw}.mag-hotel-grid{gap:30px}.mag-issue{gap:7vw;padding-inline:3vw}.desktop-nav{gap:17px}}@media(max-width:800px){.mag-cover-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px}.mag-cover-copy{padding-bottom:0}.mag-cover h1{font-size:clamp(5rem,14.5vw,8rem);margin:20px 0}.mag-cover h1 em{display:inline;margin-left:.12em}.mag-cover-deck{max-width:36ch;font-size:1.55rem;margin-bottom:24px}.mag-cover-art>a{aspect-ratio:3/2}.mag-topic-nav{gap:18px;margin-top:24px}.mag-topic-nav a{font-size:1.2rem;gap:8px}.mag-topic-nav a>span:first-child{display:none}.mag-section{padding-top:65px;padding-bottom:60px}.mag-section-heading{align-items:start;margin-bottom:30px}.mag-section-heading h2{font-size:3rem}.mag-section-heading>.text-link{max-width:14ch;font-size:.63rem;line-height:1.6}.mag-section-deck{margin-top:0}.mag-food-inner{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5vw}.mag-food-copy h2{font-size:3.8rem}.mag-food-feature{padding:55px 0}.mag-food-image{aspect-ratio:4/5}.mag-outside{padding:45px 5vw;gap:5vw}.mag-outside-copy h2{font-size:3.3rem}.article-shell{padding-top:35px}.article-header{gap:35px;margin-bottom:45px}.article-place{padding:35px}.mag-hotel-intro{gap:5vw}.mag-page-heading h1{font-size:4.2rem}}@media(max-width:600px){:root{--page: calc(100% - 36px) }.site-header{min-height:76px}.site-header.home-masthead{min-height:100px}.home-masthead .wordmark-main{font-size:4.8rem}.mag-cover-line{padding:17px 0 24px;gap:12px}.mag-cover-line .kicker{font-size:.56rem;letter-spacing:.08em}.mag-cover h1{font-size:4.8rem;margin:18px 0}.mag-cover h1 em{display:block;margin-left:0}.mag-cover-deck{font-size:1.45rem}.mag-cover-art figcaption{font-size:.55rem}.mag-topic-nav{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 20px;padding:12px 0}.mag-topic-nav a{padding:12px 0;font-size:1.35rem}.mag-section{padding-top:55px;padding-bottom:50px}.mag-section-heading{display:block}.mag-section-heading h2{font-size:2.8rem;margin-bottom:18px}.mag-section-heading>.text-link{max-width:none}.mag-story-grid,.mag-edit-grid,.mag-hotel-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:36px}.mag-edit-grid .mag-story:nth-child(2){margin-top:0}.mag-edit-grid .mag-story:nth-child(2) .mag-story-image{aspect-ratio:4/3}.mag-story h3{font-size:2.1rem}.mag-story-meta>span:last-child{display:block}.mag-story p{font-size:.9rem}.mag-food-inner,.mag-outside,.mag-issue,.mag-hotel-intro,.mag-hotel-compare{grid-template-columns:1fr}.mag-food-copy h2{font-size:3.7rem;max-width:10ch;margin:20px 0}.mag-food-inner{gap:35px}.mag-food-image{aspect-ratio:3/2}.mag-outside{padding:28px;gap:32px}.mag-outside-visual{max-height:280px}.mag-outside-copy h2{font-size:3rem}.mag-issue{padding:45px 15px 65px;gap:45px}.mag-issue-art{width:70%;padding:24px 30px;margin:auto}.mag-issue-copy h2{font-size:3.4rem}.mag-page-heading{padding-top:40px}.mag-page-heading h1{font-size:3.7rem}.mag-hotel-intro{padding:40px 0;gap:30px}.mag-hotel-compare{gap:20px;padding:40px 0}.article-heading h1{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,11vw,4rem);line-height:1.02}.article-heading{text-align:left}.article-byline{justify-content:start;font-size:.58rem;gap:8px 14px}.article-standfirst{font-size:1.35rem}.article-place{padding:28px 24px}.article-related-links a{padding:20px 0}.footer-lead{padding-bottom:35px}.footer-links{gap:8px 20px}}html:not(:lang(en)) .mag-cover h1{line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:0}html:not(:lang(en)) .mag-cover h1 em{font-style:normal}html:not(:lang(en)) :is(.mag-section-heading h2,.mag-food-copy h2,.mag-outside-copy h2,.mag-issue-copy h2,.mag-page-heading h1,.article-heading h1,.mag-story h3,.prose h2){line-height:1.18;letter-spacing:0}html:lang(th) .prose>p:first-child:first-letter,html:lang(zh-Hans) .prose>p:first-child:first-letter{float:none;font:inherit;padding:0}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.mag-story-image img{transition:none}}[hidden]{display:none!important}.mag-guide-collection{padding:32px 0 100px}.mag-guide-grid{row-gap:60px}.mag-result-count{margin:0 0 32px;font-size:.65rem;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em}.mag-guide-collection .place-filters{margin-bottom:20px}.mag-guide-grid .mag-story-image{aspect-ratio:4/3}.mag-map-credit{font-size:.62rem;margin-top:24px;color:#d5dbd0}.mag-map-credit a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-sources a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}.page-shell>.breadcrumbs,.article-shell>.breadcrumbs,.simple-page>.breadcrumbs{width:100%}.simple-page>.places-grid,.simple-page>.place-filters,.simple-page>.credit-grid{width:100%}.mag-guide-collection .place-filters{width:100%;margin:0 0 22px}.place-filters button{border-radius:0;border-color:var(--line);font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.08em}.contact-checklist{color:var(--ink);background:#e6e8da}.contact-checklist .kicker{color:var(--ink)}.contact-checklist li{border-top-color:var(--line)}.article-related-links a:hover{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);transform:none}.article-related-links a:hover strong{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:5px}