Zaab Kak Kak / Isan Thai Cuisine / Soi 16

Zaab Kak Kak is not trying to be gentle with you. The name itself, zaab meaning delicious in the Isan dialect, kak kak suggesting the heat, is a statement of intent. This is northeastern Thai food made the way it is actually eaten in the villages of Buriram and Udon Thani: properly spiced, properly sour, properly aromatic.

The som tam here is the real article. Green papaya pounded with enough dried shrimp, fish sauce, lime, and bird’s eye chilli to make the category suddenly make sense if you have only had the softened tourist versions before. The larb mu is fresh and herbaceous with a kick that lingers. The grilled chicken arrives from the charcoal with a crust and the smoke in it.

Good Isan restaurants that do not adjust the seasoning for non-Thai palates are harder to find than they should be. Zaab Kak Kak is the real thing on Soi 16.

Order the nam tok with sticky rice. Eat it with your hands. That is the way.

37 Sukhumvit Soi 16 / Confirm today’s hours before visiting State your chilli tolerance clearly. The table will be better for it.