An Isan meal is a good reason to gather around a shared table. At Zaab Kak Kak on Soi 16, start with the menu and the people eating: who likes chilli, who wants something grilled and how much sticky rice belongs in the order.

Let contrast guide the meal. Ask which salads, grilled dishes and other plates are available, then choose across those categories. State your preferred heat clearly; sharing a table should not require everyone to share the same tolerance.

Make it part of the soi

Keep this as a meal rather than another stop to rush through. The neighbourhood restaurant guide helps if you are choosing between several kinds of food; the day plan adds the park and coffee around it.

Find it: 37 Sukhumvit Soi 16. Use the restaurant’s Facebook page for current information before visiting.